Lawn Care and Landscaping FAQs

Mushrooms are a fungus that grows off decaying organic matter in the soil. Old tree stumps or old  tree roots  are the main source of food for mushrooms. Sometimes mushroom will grow off old dog poop, old septic pipes or septic tanks from year ago. Mushrooms will grow if there is there old building debris buried in soil, tree stumps or boards.

Lime and weed control will not kill the mushrooms. Mushrooms are a fungus that grows in the soil, not a plant.  Weed control will only kill plants. Lime is use to neutralize the soil PH, lime is 97% calcium and will not kill anything either plants nor a fungus.

Here’s how……Water your lawn 3 times per week,  for one hour per area.
The best times to water your lawn is early in the morning or late afternoon. The worst time to water (because it causes fungus to kill your lawn) is at between 7 pm to 2 am. Water after 7 is very bad for the lawn.
Lawn provides Organic aeration application that will double the effectiveness of your watering. Organic aeration allows more water to penetrate and be retained in the soil where the grass roots grow.

You do not have to have water your lawn on our lawn care programs. Lawn Science programs are design to work well without additional watering other then what mother nature provides.
Your lawn will go dormant in the heat of the summer, turning brown and not growing very fast. When the temperatures cool down and regular rainfall begins aging the lawn will quickly respond by turning green and growing again.

Lawn Science applies both liquid and granular applications. In the case of a liquid application you will not see tire marks because the liquid sprayed from a hose and will not leave noticeable marks. If the application is granular you will see tire mark in the lawn. The commercial fertilizer spreader Lawn Science uses throws the fertilizer in a 16-20 feet wide pattern. The tire marks will appear about 12-16 feet apart. The area is less than 16 feet wide you may only see one set of tire tracks. The best way to view the tire tracks is from the highest vantage point in your home, a second or third story view.

Sometimes people do not hear the tech starting his application and only know the tech is there when they see him. If you see the tech in the back yard or in the middle of the lawn, the tech has been applying for some time. If you see the tech unloading  his equipment, he has just arrived. We work hard to keep our equipment operating where the noise levels are not bothersome to our clients or their neighbors.

First year customers find that weeds are reduced in their lawn, both crabgrass and broadleaf weeds. This may result in a number of bare spot where the weeds once grew. The best solution for these bares spot is a over seeding in late summer and  fall season. Many lawn Science customer have found the existing grass will fill in these bare spots over a period of time. If the bare areas are large or abundant over seeding is quickest way to thicken the lawn

We applied both liquid and granular applications. In the case of the liquid applications you will not be able to see the martial on the ground or the leaf of the plant. The liquid is a dark brown color and dries clear. The granular materials are visible if you look very closely. The organic fertilizers are brown and blend into the soil. The granular Lime is brown and very difficult to see against the soil.

The nutrient part of our lawn care program is organic based. We feed the lawn and build strong root systems with organics. The control side of our programs uses small amounts of pesticides to control weeds and insects. We have found the best approach is to use organics to improve the quality of the lawn and reduce the use of pesticides to the absolute minimum to be effective.

It's best to wait for a least one full day. If you cannot wait a full day, please wait at least two hours for a liquid treatment to fully dry. Most granular applications can be mowed immediately after the application, as long as you’re not catching the grass clippings.

The very first and last mowing of the season should be at least 2 inches tall.

Spring and fall: mowing should be at 3 inches tall.

Summer: mowing should be at 3.5 inches tall

Grub control is very effective in controlling  grubs, but only slightly helpful in reducing moles.
A mole’s favorite food are earthworms. Moles love earthworms because they are easy to find and abundantly available. Moles are hemophiliacs and need the protein the worms provide.
The best way to control moles, is using a multi-angle approach including: trapping, repellants, and baiting.

Trapping: The best trap we have found is the Gempler’s Wire Tek “Mole eliminator”

Repellants: The three best that we have found are a sound repellant by Bonide-“Sonic Spike” and Bonide.

Baiting: Baits the two best we have found are by Motomco and Tomcat both offer a bait in the form of a worm and a grub.

“Red Thread” Lawns containing perennial ryegrass, fine fescues and some typesof Kentucky bluegrass are especially susceptible to red thread disease. The blades are the only part of the grass plant that are affected, and death starts at the tips and moves downward. The symptoms include:

Tan, dead leaf blades

Circular or irregular-shaped patches of grass that die back

Pink, pale red or orange fungal growth (known as “red threads”) extending beyond the tips of infected leaf blades.

Infected grass patches that may be scattered or merge together to create larger areas of infected grass.

A robust lawn will have an easier time withstanding attacks from red thread. As always, proper mowing, watering and fertilizing practices are recommended.

Liquid organic aeration is more effective because it aerates 100% of the area to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Core aerations only goes down 3 inches and only to where the hole is made.